Dùn Gerashader, LA
shorn of dwelling, the oval plateau’s lush
with flora, flagged in the rivers crook,
by yellow iris, thyme, stinging nettle,
sharp sorrel & dwarfie willow;
heir to the fort and its remnants,
this wild garden sinks its roots
into the bog-rich nutrients
of ruin
Dùn Gerashader & An Stòrr, LA
snug in the confluence of River Chracaig & Martaig Burn
Gershader reminds me of Carver’s poem
describing his love for the places
where waters meet one-another:
meandering burn, winding river,
flow down to the bustling harbour
and generous broad bay that opens
into the sea highway
dùns such as Gerashader were forts & grainstore
corrals for cattle, homes & seats, hollow-walled
keeps & watchtowers
it’s easy to imagine the dùn as a hilltop compass,
aligning calends, determining the shining domains
of the inter-lunar lords
overlooking the long glen there are peaks dividing
each quadrant of the dùn, issuing an invitation
to draw leys as poetic lines, over the township
and wild landscape
that men may read
in the mysterious map
all lines and signs
(Ben Jonson)
Dùn Gerashader, Fort of the Little Dwelling (Grid ref: NG489452); see RCAHMS site records.
Discussing the flora with a local expert in botany, I speculated from past experience that, sometimes,
a hidden dùn can be found by identifying plants, in particular thyme and sorrel, descendants of the
ancient fort-dweller's garden; he disagreed, saying it was ' stretching a point', and countering that
dwelling leaves a rich bed of nutrients: 'the building of the dùns and their subsequent development
will have encouraged the growth of these and other plants. Another plant that is quite uncommon
locally but is to be found on several duns is Dove's-foot Crane's-bill. Off the top of my head I know of
no culinary use for this plant - there might be some obscure medical use. None of this proves that
ancient plantings have not persisted - this is unknowable.' (Stephen Bungard). From whatever
origins, the flora at Gershader includes: yellow iris, sealastair; thyme, lus an rìgh; nettle, deanntag;
sorrel, samh; and willow, seileach ailpeach. River Chracaig , Crook-Bay River; the harbour is, of
course, Portree, King’s Harbor. Sorley MacLean’s poem ‘Soluis’ (‘Lights’) includes the line,
‘boillsgidh uachdarain ra-dhorcha’, (‘the interlunar lords are shining’). Raymond Carver uses the
image of a confluence in ‘Where Water Comes Together With Other Water’, in All of Us: The
Collected Poems (Harvill, 2003); the quotation from Ben Jonson is from Pleasure reconciled to
Virtue (1618), it was suggested by Amy Todman
a hidden dùn can be found by identifying plants, in particular thyme and sorrel, descendants of the
ancient fort-dweller's garden; he disagreed, saying it was ' stretching a point', and countering that
dwelling leaves a rich bed of nutrients: 'the building of the dùns and their subsequent development
will have encouraged the growth of these and other plants. Another plant that is quite uncommon
locally but is to be found on several duns is Dove's-foot Crane's-bill. Off the top of my head I know of
no culinary use for this plant - there might be some obscure medical use. None of this proves that
ancient plantings have not persisted - this is unknowable.' (Stephen Bungard). From whatever
origins, the flora at Gershader includes: yellow iris, sealastair; thyme, lus an rìgh; nettle, deanntag;
sorrel, samh; and willow, seileach ailpeach. River Chracaig , Crook-Bay River; the harbour is, of
course, Portree, King’s Harbor. Sorley MacLean’s poem ‘Soluis’ (‘Lights’) includes the line,
‘boillsgidh uachdarain ra-dhorcha’, (‘the interlunar lords are shining’). Raymond Carver uses the
image of a confluence in ‘Where Water Comes Together With Other Water’, in All of Us: The
Collected Poems (Harvill, 2003); the quotation from Ben Jonson is from Pleasure reconciled to
Virtue (1618), it was suggested by Amy Todman
Dùn Beag; poem & photo AF
word-mntn (Ben Tianavaig)
SEASON-WHEEL
calend
more notes on dùns
Dùn Gerashader; poem AF, photograph LA
the dùn was a collage of stone & timber
the dùn was a seat & keep
the dùn was prestigious, making a show of defence
the dùn was where I saw you coming, miles off
the dùn was an event
the dùn was a centre for a scattered settlement, defining folk’s place in the scheme of things
the dùn was proud of its midden, kept close-by, as proof of status
(after Ian Armit)
the notes on dùns draw on my research from the road north, and from the archaeologist Ian Armit’s
survey The Archaeology of Skye and the Western Isles (Edinburgh University Press, 1996); a further
set of these notes appear in the guide to Dùnan an Aisilidh
survey The Archaeology of Skye and the Western Isles (Edinburgh University Press, 1996); a further
set of these notes appear in the guide to Dùnan an Aisilidh
compassing the dùn
word-mntn (An Stòrr) poem AF, photograph LA
Gershader is a natural compass and sphere
of influence:
west, the top flagstone, Healabhal Mhòr
south, the near eminence of Ben Tianavaig;
farther off Glàmaig, Marsco
and the reigning ridge design of the Black Cuillin
north, A’ Chorra Bheinn, Beinn Mheadhonach, & Beinn a' Chearcaill
vertical, on the horizon, the bull’s pintle
hard as a rock, not drooping, but still
caught in a slow decline from An Stòrr to the seashore
word-mntn (Glàmaig) poem AF, photograph LA
looking at The Cuillins with Kuo Hsi
a mountain looks this way close to
another way a few miles away
and yet another way
from a distance of a dozen miles
a mountain changes shape at every step
the moreso the farther one goes
a mountain looks this way from the front
that way from the side
another way from the back
a mountain changes aspect from every angle
as many times as there are points of view
a mountain contains the skyline
of several dozen or a hundred mountains
a mountain changes with the seasons
looking this way in spring & summer
another way in autumn & winter
a mountain looks this way in the morning
another way at sunset
yet another way in rain or shine
a mountain changes manner and appearance
with morning and night
a mountain contains the form
of several dozen or a hundred
or thousands of mountains
(after Kuo Hsi, 11th c. AD)
A suite of photographs depicting some of these hills and mountains can be viewed below. The final
verses are a version of the Chinese painter Kuo Hsi's treatise mountains & rivers. The translations
of the mountain names are included with the conspectus below. An Stòrr, The Big (One), fearures
the Bodach an Stoir, Old Man of Stòrr: 46m pinnacle which detached from the cliffs c. 14,000 years
ago and is slowly slipping toward the coast. Commonly identified with a pintle or penis; in his essay,
‘Paths of Our Ancestors’, John Purser argues for an association with a bull, rather than human
phallus, given the symbolical importance of cattle management in ancient Skye, (An Stòrr:
unfolding landscape, NVA/Luath, 2005).
verses are a version of the Chinese painter Kuo Hsi's treatise mountains & rivers. The translations
of the mountain names are included with the conspectus below. An Stòrr, The Big (One), fearures
the Bodach an Stoir, Old Man of Stòrr: 46m pinnacle which detached from the cliffs c. 14,000 years
ago and is slowly slipping toward the coast. Commonly identified with a pintle or penis; in his essay,
‘Paths of Our Ancestors’, John Purser argues for an association with a bull, rather than human
phallus, given the symbolical importance of cattle management in ancient Skye, (An Stòrr:
unfolding landscape, NVA/Luath, 2005).
An Storr: Unfolding Landscape, photograph by Euan Barr
NVA, an environmental charity based in Glasgow, presented a contemporary rite on An Stòrr, feat-
uring lighting, sound and song; conceived by Angus Farquhar, An Storr (2005) was a reflection on
mountain culture, in particular the mountains of Skye and Nepal, and a homage to the poetry of
Sorley MacLean.
uring lighting, sound and song; conceived by Angus Farquhar, An Storr (2005) was a reflection on
mountain culture, in particular the mountains of Skye and Nepal, and a homage to the poetry of
Sorley MacLean.
word-mntn (Ben Tianavaig); poem AF, photograph EN
word-mntn (Marsco); poem AF, photograph LA
word-mntn (A’ Chorra Bheinn); poem AF, photograph LA
word-mntn (A’ Chorra Bheinn); poem AF, photograph LA
flora of Trotternish
word mntn (An Stòrr / The Storr); poem AF, photograph EN
Gerashader's waters feed an alphabet of flowers
as your eye flutters along the wavy ridge
of the Trotternish trap, where slopes & crannies
are rich with mats of alpine & arctic flora,
wee orchids wedged in the scrim of flushes,
purslane, pearlwort & liverwort in the lee of cliffs
putting down roots into mineral soils
putting down roots into mineral soils
laced with zeolites which were deposited
before life began
In geological terms a trap is basalt lava, stacks & sills; zeolite is microporous aluminosilicate. The
names of the flora are orchid, mogairlean; purslane, seachranaiche; pearlwort mungan & liverwort,
duilleag a' chruitheachd. The mesostic poems below list some of the flora that grow on the the
Trotternish ridge, in English, Gaelic & Latin; the species were provided by Alex Turner of Scottish
Natural Heritage; he also told me about a gentian that thrived under the equipment stands that NVA
set up for An Stòrr, Field Gentian (Gentianella campestris; Lus a Chrubain). The translations are
taken from C. W. Murray and H. J. B Birks, The Botanist in Skye and adjacent islands.
names of the flora are orchid, mogairlean; purslane, seachranaiche; pearlwort mungan & liverwort,
duilleag a' chruitheachd. The mesostic poems below list some of the flora that grow on the the
Trotternish ridge, in English, Gaelic & Latin; the species were provided by Alex Turner of Scottish
Natural Heritage; he also told me about a gentian that thrived under the equipment stands that NVA
set up for An Stòrr, Field Gentian (Gentianella campestris; Lus a Chrubain). The translations are
taken from C. W. Murray and H. J. B Birks, The Botanist in Skye and adjacent islands.
R
mesOstic
T
T
E
heRbarium
N
I
S
H
T
iceland puRslane
O
T
T
koEnigia islandica
R
N
puIrslean innis tile
S
H
T
R
northern rOck cress
T
arabis peTraea
E
R
N
biolaIr na creige thuathach
S
H
T
alpine peaRlwort
O
T
T
sagina saginoidEs
R
mungan mòiNtich
I
S
H
T
alpine saxifRage
O
T
T
E
saxifRaga nivalis
N
I
clach-bhriseach an t-Sneachda
clach-bhriseach an t-Sneachda
H
T
R
O
alpine lady’s manTle
T
alchEmilla alpina
R
N
I
truSgan
H
T
R
yellOw saxifrage
T
T
saxifragE aizoides
R
N
clach-bhrIseach bhuidhe
S
H
T
R
globe flOwer
T
T
trollius Europaeus
R
N
leolaIcheann
S
H
T
R
O
field genTian
T
gentianElla campestris
R
N
lus a' chrùbaIn
S
H
vision of the Bunnymen
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/11121516@N03/]ask permission from Allan Brown
Echo and the Bunnymen, Portree Gathering Hall, July 5, 1983, AB
on their legendary leylines tour around the Hebrides
dreamed up by Bill Drummond, Echo & the Bunnymen
played The Gathering Hall, Portree
guitarist Will Sergeant recalls all the Bunnymen
camped out like another invading army –
they were all camo'd up, so it was like
army manoeuvres
J. C. R. Green, Hebridean haiku
word-mntn (Am Basteir); poem AF, photograph LA
noon (or 2 am)
sunlight (or moonshine)
the sea cools
in the dense mist
what is being shouted
between hill and boat
with the evening breeze
the water laps
the heron's legs
the sea darkens
the voices of wild ducks
faintly white
J. C. R. Green’s haiku, selected from 'Six Haiku Showing Zen, Harris 1973', in A Beaten Image
(Aquila, 1973), and Sixty Haiku (Aquila, 1982). Thanks to the Scottish Poetry Library for providing
the text. Green, known as Jim to his friends, was editor of Aquila Press and editor and publisher of
the magazine Prospice. The poet and bookseller Alan Halsey recalls ‘Aquila was a prolific publisher,
particularly of translations of poetry in languages not commonly translated – east European etc. He
told me once that the latter financed his operation – he'd get generous subsidies from the embassies
who would then take most of the print-run. When he moved from Skye he sent me his remaining stock
in I can't remember how many huge parcels; they arrived in Hay completely sodden, as if they'd been
trailed off the back of the ferry’.
(Aquila, 1973), and Sixty Haiku (Aquila, 1982). Thanks to the Scottish Poetry Library for providing
the text. Green, known as Jim to his friends, was editor of Aquila Press and editor and publisher of
the magazine Prospice. The poet and bookseller Alan Halsey recalls ‘Aquila was a prolific publisher,
particularly of translations of poetry in languages not commonly translated – east European etc. He
told me once that the latter financed his operation – he'd get generous subsidies from the embassies
who would then take most of the print-run. When he moved from Skye he sent me his remaining stock
in I can't remember how many huge parcels; they arrived in Hay completely sodden, as if they'd been
trailed off the back of the ferry’.
word-mntn (Beinn a' Chearcaill)
Dùn Gerashader conspectus
This conspectus is composed from the names of some of the mountains that
are
visible from this location. The centre-point marks the location of Dùn Gerashader.
The typography represents the view as it is experienced by the human eye, giving
an approximate impression of distance and scale. Mountain ridges are indicated
by overlapping names. The gradation of hill slopes is suggested by the use of grey-
The typography represents the view as it is experienced by the human eye, giving
an approximate impression of distance and scale. Mountain ridges are indicated
by overlapping names. The gradation of hill slopes is suggested by the use of grey-
scale, with the peak in black.
Click on this graphic to view the original and, if you wish,
print it out for use in
situ. A booklet containing all 14 conspectuses is available from ATLAS Arts. The
14 conspectuses have also been archived in an
album, indexed here. A complete
list of the mountains referred to in the Dùn Gerashader. guide is given below, with
links from each one to its OS map. English translations have been given where
possible. A gallery of word-mntn drawings, including mountains visible from
Dùn Gerashader, can be found on the drawing page.
list of the mountains referred to in the Dùn Gerashader. guide is given below, with
links from each one to its OS map. English translations have been given where
possible. A gallery of word-mntn drawings, including mountains visible from
Dùn Gerashader, can be found on the drawing page.
| A' Corra Bheinn | Mountain of the Hollows |
| Am Basteir | The Executioner |
| An Stòrr | The Big (One) |
| Beinn a’ Chearcaill | The Mountain of the Girdle |
| Beinn Mheadhonach | Middle Mountain |
| Ben Tianavaig | Bay or Harbour Mountain |
| Glàmaig | The Greedy Woman |
| Healabhal Mhòr | Big Flagstone Hill |
| Marsco | Seagull Rock |
contributors
Alec Finlay (AF)
with
Luke Allan (LA)
Allan Brown
J. C. R. Green
Alan Halsey
Gavin Morrison
Emma Nicolson (EN)
Gaelic consultant
Maoilios Caimbeul
navigation
to view the next conspectus click here
to return to the map with links to all 14 guides click here
to read the project overview click here
for basic project information, including acknowledgements, click here
Còmhlan Bheanntan | A Company of Mountains
commissioned by ATLAS, Skye, 2012-13
http://atlasarts.org.uk/
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